Perim is an island at the southern end of the Red Sea. Until about 1934 it was a
coaling station and a great number of ships put in there and not in Aden. It is now dead.
Most of the buildings on the island and all the former installations of the port are derelict.
My purpose in going to Perim was to try the local witch doctor. The Aden Crown
Counsel came to prosecute and we had a police officer and a witness with us. We flew in
an aeroplane which had been chartered for the occasion by the Police from an Aden
company. It was a new American plane - a Bonanza Beechcraft. It sat six and was very
comfortable. We left early in the morning and, as Perim is only about 100 miles away,
we were there is less than an hour. Perim (unlike Kamaran which has its own Order in
Council) is part of the Colony of Aden and accordingly I had jurisdiction there. As we
circled over the island it looked extremely bleak but there is something romantic about it.
It is separated on one side from the Yemen and on the other from the coast of Africa and
lies across one of the busiest trade routes of the world. It was odd to think how many
people and how many things had passed so close to this desolate place. The island is
about five miles square. It contains a natural harbour which cuts well into the island like
a tongue. Lying at the bottom of the harbour and looking like a great shark was the
carcass of a warship sunk there in the war. More immediately sinister were the remains
of an aeroplane which lay spreadeagled on the ground a short way from the end of the
runway. We landed safely however and were met by the Clerk of Perim who runs the
place. He is under the orders of the Commissioner of Police in Aden who is the
Administrator of Perim.
Perim is not a flat piece of bare sand. It is a small undulating island broken into three
or four small hills. The ground is all sand and small black stones. Nothing could possibly
grow there. There are two shops. The population consists of about 300 people. A few of
them are professional fishermen, others are employed in the evaporation plant which
makes fresh water from the sea and some are miscellaneously employed by the
Government. The rest are 'destitutes', to use the Clerk's expression, and are kept by the
Government who had not the heart to let them starve or compel them to move to Aden
when the port was closed.
There is no transport on the island and no road. After a few minutes walk we arrived
at the police barracks. There is always a small detachment of armed police from Aden.
To my considerable surprise, I was greeted with a Guard of Honour. I was not quite sure
what to do. I was dressed in white shorts and shirt, a camera over my shoulder and a
missionary hat which had been rescued from obscurity for the occasion. I handed the
camera to the Clerk and rather clumsily removed the hat while the guard presented arms.
When this was over I inspected the guard. I muttered something which could have been
'carry on Sergeant' and the guard was duly dismissed. It was similar to the guard which
the judge inspects in Aden when he opens the sessions about three times a year. It was
exceptionally smart and I made what I hoped were suitable comments to the sergeant.
After this we all piled into a dhow and sailed across the harbour to the Administration
Office for the trial. This was believed to be the first time a magistrate had come from
Aden to try a case on Perim, but there were no crowds outside the court and remarkably
little interest was taken in the proceedings.
The charge was causing grievous hurt to a small girl of about eight. There were two
accused. One was a boiler scraper employed in the Evaporation Plant. He was also the
local witch doctor. The second accused was her father. He was charged with abetment.
The facts disclosed that the girl had been seized of a fever and her father had sent for the
local witch doctor, thus following the normal procedure. The latter diagnosed devils.
He said the girl had one devil in her mouth and one under her finger nail. In removing
the first devil, he knocked out some of her teeth. Happily they were milk teeth.
In removing the other devil, he tore off her finger nail. There is no doctor on the island,
but in due course the news reached the dresser who gave the girl some tablets which
reduced the fever. The prisoner admitted that he had treated the girl, but claimed that he
had only massaged her with oil and prayed over her. He called a number of witnesses,
including the Qadi of Perim (the Qadi is the religious leader) who all said that this was a
proper way to behave. The prisoner said his father and grandfather before him had all
been witch doctors and it was the normal practice to send for him when someone was ill.
Questioned by me, however, they all agreed that had the prisoner removed the finger nail
it would have been wrong. They were sure that he had never used violence on his
patients but had he done so it would have been wrong. The teeth they thought, being
milk teeth, might have been loose anyway and might have been knocked out by accident.
I duly convicted him and sentenced him to 9 months imprisonment in Aden. I am sure
this was a proper sentence. He had removed a girl's finger nail - a horrible thing to do.
It was clear from the evidence of the Qadi and others that it was no part of the Muslim
religion to tear off little girls' finger nails. If it had been all right in local opinion the
Clerk would never have reported the matter to Aden. By our standards it was not a heavy
sentence, but it could only be served in Aden. As he had never left Perim in his life
before and had to travel in an aeroplane to a foreign gaol, the punishment was probably
sufficient. Moreover, it was the first time in local memory that such a thing had
happened. When he has finished his sentence he will return to his job. The father I bound
over and charged him in future that when his daughter was ill to send for the dresser,
who had a stock of modern drugs, and not the witch doctor.
After the trial, we inspected the island and I took some photographs. It is a most
depressing place. There are few buildings intact and very little sign of life. We had lunch in
the very Victorian rest house. The pilot caught some fish. We had beer and ice, so did quite
well. The rest house had obviously been built, furnished and decorated at a time when
Queen Victoria was still on the throne. Although there had been no electricity on the island
for some years, electric light bulbs still hung dejectedly from the ceiling. There were
stained pictures of highland cattle on the walls and one or two watercolours in gilt frames.
When we left, the pilot. Crown Counsel and I sat in the front, the prisoner in the back
with the police inspector. When we landed in Aden, I thought the prisoner looked as if he
considered the worst part of his sentence to have been served.