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It is exactly two hundred years since the Irishman Frederick Young first
explored the hills north of the Dun Valley to find a suitable spot for a
hunting lodge. The area, known today as Mussoorie, was then thickly
forested and full of game. However, it was not until 1823 that Young,
together with Frederick Shore, built a 'shooting box' on the slope of the
Camel's Back, the oddly-shaped, and oddly-named area that now
houses a large cemetery. This was reckoned the first 'house' in
Mussoorie and no longer exists, although two other properties built by
Young are still here - Mullingar House and Mullingar Cottage. Young
was supposed to have introduced the potato here, so his house was
nicknamed Mulliagoes, or the Potato Garden. Many similarly
fascinating snippets of information are provided in this engaging book,
so that to read through it is almost as delightful as walking through
Mussoorie itself. Or rather climbing up and down, for a hill station is
not just on a hill, it is full of hills too.
It is easy to see why this particular hill station has attracted so many
writers, from Kipling, to Ruskin Bond, and now
Virgil Miedema and his daughter Stephanie, who have produced a well illustrated
and informative history. (The Foreword is by
BACSA member, Stephen McClarence.) Mussoorie was a place where
the British, and Indian royalty, could let down their hair. It was briefly
considered as a summer retreat for the British rulers of India, but
luckily for Mussoorie, Shimla was chosen instead. This meant that
Mussoorie saw less of the protocol, snobbery and pomposity associated
with the British at their worst. Everyone remarked on how pleasant the
climate was too - healthy and invigorating after the stifling plains
below, and of course it has spectacular views. It is still magical today
to catch a glimpse of the Himalayas when the clouds lift.
With its almost British weather, it was ideal for British children too and
schools were soon established, the first, the Mussoorie Seminary, in
1834. This closed long ago, but others have flourished and are still
going strong, like Waverly Convent (1845) Woodstock (1854) .
Wynberg-Allen, which was open to Anglo-Indian children, St.
George's (1853) and Hampton Court (1876). The book's authors make
the valid point that it was those schools which were prepared to adapt
to changing circumstances, particularly after Independence in 1947,
that survived and prospered .
Mussoorie was home to a number of well-known personalities, some of
whom chose to live here, and others who were forced to, like the Amir
of Afghanistan, Dost Mohammad Khan. He spent two years here
during the first Afghan War (1839-1842), holed up in the local 'Bala
Hissar', named in mockery of his own fort in Kabul. The Second
Afghan War saw another Amir, Yakub Khan, exiled here, although he
rather seemed to enjoy it. The unhappy Maharaja Duleep Singh spent
two seasons here, in 1852 and 1853, before moving to England. Indian
royalty, like Kapurthala, Baroda, Bhopal and others, all had summer
retreats here because the colonial government readily granted them
permission to establish bases, whereas it was harder to get permission
to settle in Shimla. Shops, hotels and clubs grew up to support the
summer visitors. There was entertainment too, in the form of The
Rink, which was used not only for roller- skating but as a concert hall
and theatre too. For sp iritual needs there were a number of churches ,
the oldest of which is Christ Church, founded in 1836. In fact this is
the first Protestant church in the entire Himalayan region, and its recent
restoration is a cause for pride. For those who know Mussoorie, this
book will be welcomed, and for those who don't, then perhaps it will
inspire them to visit the hill station, using this informative guide.
Warmly recommended.
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