British Empire Title

The Westcountry Walker: Hiking Through History

Poundsgate


Tavistock Inn, Poundsgate

Poundsgate is one of those Dartmoor hamlets that seems to exist mainly for people who are already on their way somewhere else. It sits at a crossroads on the high ground between Ashburton and Princetown, a handful of houses, a chapel, and the Tavistock Inn gathered around a bend in the road where the moor begins to feel properly wild. Blink and you could miss it, but stop — even for a moment — and you realise why people have been pausing here for centuries. Poundsgate is not a destination so much as a threshold, a place where travellers have always taken stock before pushing on into the weather.

Its origins lie in the practicalities of Dartmoor life. The name itself is thought to come from the animal pound that once stood by the gate leading onto the common — a simple enclosure where stray livestock were held until their owners reclaimed them. It was the sort of structure every moorland parish needed, and Poundsgate grew up around it in the way rural settlements often do: slowly, without plan, shaped by the needs of farmers, drovers and the occasional packhorse train making its way across the high ground. The roads that meet here are older than the hamlet itself, worn into the landscape by generations of people who knew the moor intimately and respected its moods.

By the medieval period, Poundsgate had become a recognised stopping point on the route between Tavistock and Ashburton, two of Devon’s most important stannary towns. Tin from the high moor travelled this way, as did wool, hides, and the everyday goods that kept the scattered farms supplied. The Tavistock Inn, which still stands at the crossroads, has been offering shelter to travellers since at least the fifteenth century. Its thick walls and low beams speak of a time when a fire, a tankard of cider and a roof over your head were not comforts but necessities. Even now, when it happens to be open, the place feels like a refuge from the moor rather than a business on it.

The surrounding farms tell their own story. This part of Dartmoor has always been a landscape of smallholdings and rough pasture, where cattle and sheep grazed the commons and the rhythm of the year was set by the weather rather than the calendar. The fields around Poundsgate still follow their ancient boundaries, long narrow strips that climb the slopes in a pattern unchanged for centuries. The lanes are sunken and mossy, the hedgebanks thick with ferns and granite. You can walk them for hours without seeing another person, only the occasional pony lifting its head to watch you pass.

Like much of Dartmoor, Poundsgate has accumulated stories in the way old places do. The most famous is the tale of the Evil Rider, tied to the great storm of 1638 when Widecombe Church was struck during a Sunday service. According to the legend, the Devil himself stopped at the Tavistock Inn for a flagon of cider before galloping on to Widecombe, where he tore through the roof and carried off a sleeping boy. Whether anyone in Poundsgate believed it at the time hardly matters; the story has clung to the place for nearly four centuries, helped by the inn’s lonely setting and the moor’s fondness for drama. Even now, on a winter afternoon when the shutters are drawn and the wind is rising, you can almost imagine the sound of hooves on the road.

For all its folklore, Poundsgate’s real history is quieter and more practical. The nineteenth century brought the usual rural pressures — enclosure, changing tenancies, the slow decline of small-scale moorland industries — but the hamlet remained much as it had always been. A few cottages, a chapel, a pub, and the steady movement of people passing through on their way to somewhere else. The twentieth century added cars to the roads and walkers to the footpaths, but Poundsgate never grew or shrank dramatically. It simply continued, anchored by its crossroads and its relationship with the moor.

What makes Poundsgate compelling is not its size or its architecture but its sense of continuity. Stand by the inn on a still morning and you can feel the weight of all the journeys that have passed this way: drovers heading for market, miners trudging home from the tinworks, soldiers marching during the Civil War, and generations of farmers moving their stock across the commons. The landscape holds those memories lightly, but they are there in the shape of the lanes, the line of the hedges, and the way the moor opens out just beyond the last house.

Poundsgate does not try to be picturesque, and that is part of its charm. It is a working hamlet on the edge of a demanding landscape, shaped by weather, livestock and the long familiarity between people and place. If you stop here — really stop, not just pass through — you begin to understand why it has endured. The moor can be harsh, but it rewards those who know how to live with it. Poundsgate is one of the places where that knowledge has settled, quietly and without fuss, into the fabric of the land.

Poundsgate

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